Stainless Steel Prep Tables

The Complete Stainless Steel Prep Table Guide

This guide covers how to choose, set up and look after a stainless steel prep table or equipment stand. It is built around the 38 pieces on this page: Atosa Mixrite flat-top work tables in 24", 30" and 36" depths, tables with a 4" backsplash or a 2" rear edge, SE equipment stands in 30" and 36" depths, and the WA400001 caster set. Dimensions, weight capacities, leg counts, materials and warranty terms come from Atosa's listings for each model. Where Atosa does not list a figure, we say so rather than guess.

In this guide:

• Quick pick: which table fits your kitchen
• What a prep table is, and how it differs from a work table
• Anatomy of an Atosa Mixrite table
• Every model side by side
• Choosing the depth: 24", 30" or 36"
• Choosing the width: 24" to 96"
• Flat top, backsplash or rear edge
• Equipment stands
• Weight capacity and how to load a table
• Stainless steel grades: 430 vs. 304 vs. 316
• Gauge, finish and construction
• NSF certification and food contact surfaces
• Working height and comfort
• Layout, aisles and workflow
• Casters and mobile tables
• Delivery and assembly
• Cleaning and sanitizing
• Rust, stains and corrosion
• New vs. used stainless tables
• Beyond the kitchen
• Common mistakes
• Before you order
• Prep table FAQ

Quick Pick: Which Table Fits Your Kitchen

If you only read one section, read this one. Most buyers can narrow 38 products to two or three by answering four questions.

1. What goes on it? Food prep and hand work need a 34" high work table. A countertop griddle, charbroiler, hot plate or other countertop appliance needs a low equipment stand, which is 25-3/4" high so the cooking surface ends up at a workable height.
2. Is it against a wall? If yes, a 4" backsplash (ECB4) keeps splashes and crumbs off the wall, and a 2" rear edge (ECR2) stops pans and tools from sliding off the back. If people will work from both sides, or it sits in the middle of the room, choose a flat top (EC).
3. How deep can it be? 24" deep suits narrow kitchens and wall runs. 30" deep is the most versatile and fits a full sheet pan with room to spare. 36" deep suits islands and large equipment.
4. How long is the space? Measure the run, then subtract room for door swings, equipment clearances and walking paths. Widths run from 24" to 96".

What a Prep Table Is, and How It Differs From a Work Table

In commercial kitchens, "prep table" and "work table" are often used for the same thing: a stainless steel table at counter height where food is portioned, cut, mixed, assembled or plated. The table on this page is that piece of equipment. It has a flat stainless top, four or six stainless legs and an undershelf for storage.

The term "prep table" is also used for refrigerated units, such as sandwich and pizza prep tables, which have a cold rail of ingredient pans above a refrigerated cabinet. Those are a different category. Everything on this page is non-refrigerated: a stainless surface and storage, with no compressor, no power cord and nothing to plug in. That is a large part of its appeal. A stainless work table has no moving parts and nothing that needs servicing, and it can be placed anywhere the floor is level.

The way people describe the difference in practice:

• Work table: a general-purpose stainless table for any job, from food prep to holding equipment, packing orders or staging deliveries.
• Prep table: the same table used for food preparation. Atosa's Mixrite tables are NSF listed, which is what matters for food contact.
• Equipment stand: a lower, stronger table designed to carry countertop cooking equipment instead of people working on it.

If you are comparing listings across different sites, compare the actual specs (depth, width, height, gauge, steel grade, capacity and certification) rather than the name.

Anatomy of an Atosa Mixrite Table

Every Mixrite work table on this page shares the same basic build, according to Atosa's listings. Knowing the parts makes it easier to compare it with other tables.

• Top: 18 gauge, 430 stainless steel with a satin, mechanically polished finish. The top is sound deadened, which reduces the drumming noise a thin steel top can make when you set down pans or chop on a board.
• Edges: turned down on the flat-top, backsplash and rear-edge tables, so there is no sharp cut edge at the front.
• Hat channel: stainless steel reinforcement under the top. The channel stiffens the top so it resists sagging between the legs.
• Legs: stainless steel tubular legs, 1-5/8" in diameter. Most models have four. The longest models have six (see the tables below).
• Feet: 1" adjustable bullet feet. You turn these to level the table on an uneven floor.
• Undershelf: stainless steel and adjustable in height on the work tables, so you can fit tall stock pots or low bins underneath.
• Certification and warranty: NSF listed, with a 90-day warranty on workmanship.
• Shipping: ships knocked down (KD), meaning flat-packed for assembly on site.

The SE equipment stands use a different build. All nine are 18 gauge, 25-3/4" high, with safety hemmed edges on the sides and back, NSF listed and covered by the same 90-day workmanship warranty. For the 30" deep stands, Atosa lists a stainless steel top, undershelf, hat channel, legs and sockets, with bullet feet. For the 36" deep stands, Atosa lists 1-5/8" diameter legs.

Every Model Side by Side

Every product on this page is listed below, grouped by family. Sizes are Atosa's exterior dimensions: width x depth x overall height. Capacities are the figures Atosa lists for the top and the undershelf. On the equipment stands Atosa calls them recommended capacities. Where Atosa does not list a capacity, the table says so. The caster column shows whether Atosa lists the WA400001 caster set as an option for that model.

24" deep flat-top work tables (ST24xxEC)

30" deep flat-top work tables (ST30xxEC)

36" deep flat-top work tables (ST36xxEC)

Work tables with a 4" backsplash (ECB4)

Work tables with a 2" rear edge up (ECR2)

Equipment stands (SE)

Casters

A few patterns stand out once everything is side by side:

• Capacity rises with width. On the 30" deep flat tops it climbs from 440 lb on the ST3030EC to 680 lb on the ST3096EC. The 84" and 96" models, which have the biggest jump, also add a third pair of legs.
• Backsplash versions are not always rated the same as flat tops. On the 24" deep tables the ECB4 and EC capacities match. On the 30" deep tables Atosa lists the backsplash versions lower. For example, the ST3048EC is listed at 500 lb top and 370 lb undershelf, and the ST3048ECB4 at 460 lb and 340 lb.
• Atosa does not list capacities for every model. The 36" deep work tables, the 2" rear-edge tables and the 36" deep stands have no published capacity. If load matters for your job, choose a model with a listed figure.
• Stands are rated far higher than work tables. The 30" deep SE stands are listed at 800 lb to 900 lb on top, because they are built to carry heavy countertop equipment.
• The undershelf is smaller than the top. On the 24" deep tables the undershelf is 18" deep. On the 30" deep tables it is 24" deep. In both cases it is about 6" narrower than the table, because it sits inside the legs.

Choosing the Depth: 24", 30" or 36"

Depth is the decision most people get wrong, because it is easy to focus on width. Depth decides how much you can lay out in front of you, whether a sheet pan fits, and how much aisle you give up.

24" deep

The 24" deep tables (ST2424EC through ST2472EC, plus the 24" backsplash and rear-edge models) take the least floor space. They suit narrow kitchens, wall runs opposite a cook line, food trucks and back rooms where every inch of aisle counts. A standard full sheet pan is 18" x 26", so on a 24" deep table it sits sideways, with the long side running along the width of the table. A cutting board, a few hotel pans and a scale fit comfortably. The undershelf is 18" deep.

30" deep

The 30" deep tables are the most versatile. A full sheet pan fits front to back with room left over, and there is space for a cutting board in front of a row of pans or containers. This is the depth to choose if you are not sure. The ST3048EC and ST3060EC are the sizes most kitchens start with. The 30" series also has the widest choice of lengths, from 30" to 96", and the highest listed capacities. The undershelf is 24" deep.

36" deep

The 36" deep tables (ST3636EC through ST3684EC) are for islands, bakery benches and stations where two people work facing each other. Standing at a 36" deep table, most people cannot comfortably reach the back edge, so they work best when they are reachable from both sides, or when the back half holds equipment, containers or a mixer. They take a lot of floor space, so check your aisles before choosing one.

Choosing the Width: 24" to 96"

Width decides how many people can work at the table and what fits along it. As a rough planning guide:

• 24" to 36" wide: one task. Think a filler table between a fryer and a range, a spot for a slicer or mixer, or a plating spot.
• 48" wide: one person with a full cutting board and room to stage ingredients on both sides. This is the most common size.
• 60" wide: two people side by side doing light work, or one person with a piece of countertop equipment at one end.
• 72" wide: a full prep station for two, or a line along a wall.
• 84" and 96" wide: batch prep, bakery benches, packing and catering assembly. These are the 6-leg models in the 30" and 36" series.

Two shorter tables can be better than one long one. They can be moved separately, fit through doorways after assembly, and can be split up when the layout changes. One long table gives you an unbroken surface with no seam for crumbs and liquid to fall through, which matters for dough work and large sheets.

Flat Top, Backsplash or Rear Edge

The three top styles share the same 34" work surface height, the same steel and the same undershelf. The difference is what happens at the back edge.

A backsplash does more than protect paint. The gap behind a flat-top table against a wall collects food debris and moisture that is hard to clean, and it is exactly the kind of spot an inspector looks at. A backsplash closes off that gap. If the table will sit against a wall, the backsplash is usually worth having. If the table might move to an island later, a flat top keeps your options open.

Note that Atosa lists the WA400001 casters only for the flat-top 24" and 30" deep tables and the equipment stands. It does not list casters as an option for the backsplash, rear-edge or 36" deep tables.

Equipment Stands

An equipment stand is not a short work table. It is a low, heavily rated platform designed to carry countertop cooking equipment such as griddles, charbroilers, hot plates, fryers, cheese melters and countertop ovens. All nine SE stands on this page are 25-3/4" high. Putting a countertop appliance on a stand at that height brings its cooking surface up to a height a cook can work at, while a standard 34" work table would put a tall appliance too high.

Match the stand to the appliance

• Width: SE stands come in 24", 30", 36", 48" and 60" widths (each actually measures 1/4" wider), which line up with the common widths of countertop cooking equipment. Choose a stand at least as wide as the appliance's footprint, including its legs. If two appliances share one stand, add their widths and the space you want between them.
• Depth: check the appliance's depth, including the gas connection or cord at the back. The 30" deep stands (SE3024ECR2 to SE3060ECR2) suit most countertop griddles and charbroilers. The 36" deep stands (SE3630ECR2 to SE3660ECR2) suit deeper units and give you room at the front.
• Weight: add the appliance's shipping or net weight to what you will store on the undershelf. The 30" deep stands are listed at 800 lb top and 620 lb undershelf for the 24", 30" and 36" widths, and 900 lb and 700 lb for the 48" and 60" widths. Atosa does not list capacities for the 36" deep stands.

Stands and safety

Cooking equipment has its own installation requirements, set by the appliance maker and your local codes. That includes clearances to combustible and non-combustible surfaces, ventilation under a hood, gas connections and how the appliance is secured. A stainless stand does not replace any of those. Read the appliance manual before you choose a stand, and keep the undershelf clear of anything that could be affected by heat from above. Stands with casters should be locked or restrained wherever the appliance maker or code calls for it, especially with a gas connection.

The SE stands have safety hemmed edges on the sides and back. Atosa lists the two 60" wide stands (SE3060ECR2 and SE3660ECR2) with six legs. All other stands have four.

Weight Capacity and How to Load a Table

Atosa lists a top capacity and an undershelf capacity for most models. For example, the ST2448EC is listed at 460 lb on the top and 340 lb on the undershelf. These are separate figures. Treat them as the most you should place on each surface, not a target.

To use those numbers well:

• Spread the weight. Heavy items such as a mixer, slicer or stack of cases are better near a leg than in the middle of a long span.
• Count everything. Add the equipment, the food in it, and what you lean or press on the table. Kneading, pounding meat and heavy chopping put extra force on the top.
• Use the undershelf for heavy storage. Bulk ingredients and cases are better low down, where they keep the table stable.
• Choose a listed capacity if it matters. If you are planning a table for a heavy mixer or butchery, pick a model Atosa rates, rather than one with no published capacity.
• Use a stand for cooking equipment. If you are putting a countertop griddle or charbroiler on a table, an SE stand is the right tool. It is built and rated for that.

Atosa lists the net weight of each table too, from 32 lb for the ST2424EC to 110.45 lb for the ST3684EC. That is useful when you plan how many people you need for delivery and setup.

Stainless Steel Grades: 430 vs. 304 vs. 316

"Stainless steel" covers many different alloys. They all contain chromium, which forms a thin, invisible oxide layer on the surface that protects the steel underneath. What differs is how much chromium, whether there is nickel or molybdenum, and therefore how well the steel resists corrosion. Atosa lists the Mixrite work tables as 430 stainless steel for the top, undershelf and legs.

For most kitchens, a 430 table that is cleaned and dried properly will serve well for years. The grade matters most if the table will be constantly wet, used for brining or curing, cleaned with strong chlorine solutions, or kept outdoors near the coast. In those cases, a 304 or 316 table from another range may be a better fit, and the care advice in the rust section matters even more.

How to tell grades apart: a magnet sticks firmly to 430 and usually only weakly or not at all to 304. It is a quick check when you are looking at a used table or comparing listings.

Gauge, Finish and Construction

Gauge is the thickness of the steel, and the numbers run backwards: the lower the gauge, the thicker the steel. All the Mixrite tables and stands on this page are 18 gauge, which is roughly 0.05" thick. Heavier tables use 16 gauge (roughly 0.06") or 14 gauge (roughly 0.08").

Gauge is only part of the story. How stiff a table feels also depends on the reinforcement under the top, how many legs it has and how the legs are braced. Atosa's tables use a stainless hat channel under the top, tubular legs, and an undershelf that ties the legs together. That is why the listed capacities are useful: they tell you what the whole table is built to carry, not just how thick the top is.

18 gauge is a common choice for general prep, storage and light to medium equipment. If you plan to pound, cleave or hammer on the bare top all day, or carry very heavy equipment, look at a heavier gauge or an equipment stand.

The satin, mechanically polished finish on the Mixrite tops has a fine grain running in one direction. Wiping and polishing along that grain keeps the finish even and hides small scratches. The top is also sound deadened, which reduces the ringing noise of pans and utensils on bare steel.

NSF Certification and Food Contact Surfaces

A food contact surface is any surface that food normally touches, or that can drip or drain onto food. A prep table top is one. Health codes require food contact surfaces to be smooth, durable, non-absorbent, corrosion resistant and easy to clean.

NSF certification is how buyers and inspectors check that a piece of equipment meets those requirements. NSF International tests equipment against public food equipment standards, looking at the materials, how smooth and cleanable the surfaces are, and whether there are gaps or crevices where food and bacteria can collect. Every Mixrite table and stand on this page is NSF listed, according to Atosa.

Certification covers the table as it was built. It is worth keeping it that way:

• Do not drill holes or add brackets with exposed gaps unless you seal them.
• Do not seal the table to the wall with caulk that will crack and hold debris. Either leave a cleanable gap or follow your inspector's guidance.
• Replace a damaged or deeply pitted top rather than covering it.
• Use NSF-listed cutting boards on top of the table for cutting. Do not cut directly on the steel, which dulls knives and scratches the top.

Working Height and Comfort

All the Mixrite work tables have a 34" work surface. The backsplash adds 4" and the rear edge adds 2" at the back, but you still work at 34". The equipment stands are 25-3/4" high so that a countertop appliance placed on top ends up at a cooking height.

A 34" surface suits most prep. Detailed work such as plating or decorating is often easier slightly higher. Heavy work that needs body weight, such as kneading dough or breaking down meat, is often easier slightly lower. A few ways to adjust:

• The 1" adjustable bullet feet level the table and give a small amount of height adjustment.
• A thick cutting board raises the working surface.
• Casters add height. Check the final height on any table you put on casters before you commit to a layout.
• An anti-fatigue mat changes the effective height for the person standing at the table, as well as reducing strain over a long shift.

Make sure the undershelf height leaves room for what you plan to store, and for your feet. Because the Mixrite undershelf is adjustable, you can raise it for low bins or lower it for tall stock pots.

Layout, Aisles and Workflow

A prep table should sit where the work happens: between storage and the cook line, so ingredients move in one direction from cooler to table to line. A few planning points apply to almost every kitchen.

• Measure the aisle, not just the wall. Allow enough room behind the person working at the table for others to pass, and for oven and cooler doors to open fully. Check local code and your kitchen designer's plan for minimum aisle widths.
• Keep raw and ready-to-eat apart. Use separate tables, or clearly separate zones on a long table, for raw proteins and for foods that will not be cooked again. Clean and sanitize between tasks.
• Use the depth you have. A 24" deep table on one side of a narrow kitchen may leave a far more usable aisle than a 30" one.
• Put stands next to the line. Equipment stands belong under the hood with the rest of the cooking equipment. Work tables belong beside or opposite the line.
• Plan for cleaning. Leave room to clean behind and under tables, or put them on casters so they can be rolled out.

If you are fitting out a small space such as a food truck, ghost kitchen or concession stand, a short, 24" deep table often does more work per square foot than anything else, especially when the undershelf is used for storage.

Casters and Mobile Tables

Casters turn a fixed table into a mobile workstation. You can roll it out to clean the floor and wall, reconfigure the kitchen for an event, or move it to where it is needed. The WA400001 is Atosa's caster set for the Mixrite line. Atosa lists it as a set of 4 casters, 5" high, with a 1-1/2" expanding stem.

Which models take the WA400001

• Flat-top 24" deep tables: ST2424EC, ST2430EC, ST2436EC, ST2448EC, ST2460EC, ST2472EC
• Flat-top 30" deep tables: ST3030EC, ST3036EC, ST3048EC, ST3060EC, ST3072EC, ST3084EC, ST3096EC
• Equipment stands: all nine SE stands

Atosa does not list the WA400001 for the backsplash (ECB4), rear-edge (ECR2) or 36" deep flat-top tables.

Six-leg models need more than one set. One WA400001 set covers 4 legs. The ST3084EC, ST3096EC, SE3060ECR2 and SE3660ECR2 have 6 legs, so they need 6 casters, meaning two sets.

Using casters safely

• Check the load. A table's listed capacity applies to the table. When it is on casters, the casters carry everything, including the table's own weight. Load the table evenly and avoid sudden heavy impacts.
• Lock it while you work. A table should not move while someone is cutting on it. Use the caster locks, if the casters have them, or chock the wheels.
• Roll it empty if you can. Moving a fully loaded table over a floor drain, a threshold or a mat is how casters, legs and stock get damaged.
• Restrain cooking equipment. If a stand on casters carries gas equipment, follow the appliance maker's instructions and local code for restraints and flexible gas connections.
• Check the height. Casters raise the table compared with bullet feet. Measure the new working height and make sure the table still fits under shelves, windows or hoods.

Caster care

Hair, string and food debris wrap around caster axles and make them stiff. Clear them during weekly cleaning, wipe the wheels, and check that the stems are still tight in the legs. A caster that wobbles or drags should be fixed before it fails under load.

Delivery and Assembly

The Mixrite tables and stands ship knocked down (KD), so they arrive flat-packed. That makes them easier to get through doors, down stairs and into tight kitchens, but you will need to assemble them on site. Atosa lists tools as included with the SE stands.

1. Inspect on arrival. Check the box for damage before the driver leaves, and note any damage on the delivery receipt.
2. Assemble near the final spot. A fully assembled 84" or 96" table is long and awkward to move through a kitchen.
3. Peel the protective film. New stainless often has a plastic film on it. Remove it fully, because leftover film and adhesive hold moisture against the steel.
4. Set the undershelf height before you tighten everything, based on what you will store.
5. Level the table. Use the bullet feet to level the top and take out any rock. A level table is safer and puts even load on every leg.
6. Wash and sanitize before first use. Clean the new table the same way you would clean it at the end of a shift.

Cleaning and Sanitizing

A prep table is a food contact surface, so it has to be cleaned and sanitized, not just wiped. Cleaning removes food, grease and dirt. Sanitizing reduces the germs left behind to a safe level. Sanitizer does not work properly on a dirty surface, so cleaning always comes first.

The five steps

1. Scrape and clear. Remove food debris and everything on the table.
2. Wash. Use warm water and a detergent with a soft cloth or non-abrasive pad.
3. Rinse. Wipe with clean water to remove the detergent.
4. Sanitize. Apply a food-contact sanitizer at the concentration and contact time on its label. Check the concentration with test strips.
5. Air dry. Let the sanitizer dry on the surface. Do not dry the table with a towel after sanitizing.

How often

The FDA Food Code, which most US health departments base their rules on, requires food contact surfaces to be cleaned and sanitized between uses with different types of food, whenever they may have been contaminated, and at least every four hours when they are in constant use. That means cleaning between raw chicken and salad prep, not just at closing.

Sanitizers and stainless steel

The common food-contact sanitizers are chlorine (bleach), quaternary ammonium ("quat") and iodine. Whichever you use, use it at the label concentration. Stronger is not better, and too much is harder on the steel and can leave a residue. Chlorine in particular is hard on stainless steel and on 430 grade especially. Do not let it pool or sit on the table, and never use undiluted bleach on stainless.

Daily do's and don'ts

Clean the undershelf, legs and feet weekly, and roll mobile tables out to clean the floor beneath. Look for loose bolts and rough spots at the same time.

Rust, Stains and Corrosion

Stainless steel stains less, not never. Its protection comes from a thin chromium oxide layer that re-forms on its own when the surface is clean and exposed to air. Corrosion starts when something breaks that layer and keeps it from re-forming. The usual causes in a kitchen are:

• Chlorides: salt, brine, bleach and some cleaners.
• Iron contamination: particles from steel wool, wire brushes, carbon steel knives, cast iron pans or grinding dust nearby. They rust on the surface and look like the table is rusting.
• Trapped moisture: wet towels, cardboard, rubber mats or pans left on the steel, which keep air away from the surface.
• Acids and heat: acidic foods left for a long time, and heat tint near cooking equipment.

Fixing common problems

Acid rust removers

Some rust removers for stainless steel contain acids such as oxalic or phosphoric acid. They work, but they need care:

• Use only products labeled for stainless steel, and follow the label's dilution and dwell time.
• Wear gloves and eye protection and keep the area ventilated.
• Clear the table and keep food and food containers away from it.
• Rinse thoroughly with clean water afterwards, then clean and sanitize the table before it goes back into food service.

Severe or widespread corrosion is sometimes treated professionally by passivation, a chemical treatment that removes free iron and helps the protective layer re-form. For a kitchen table, good daily care almost always makes that unnecessary.

Prevention

Most rust problems are avoided by four habits: rinse off salt, acid and cleaners; never use steel wool; never leave anything wet on the steel overnight; and let the table dry fully at the end of every day. If your kitchen is near the ocean, or you prep a lot of brined or cured foods, check the table more often.

New vs. Used Stainless Tables

Used stainless tables are easy to find, and a sound one can save money. Stainless steel has no moving parts, and a table that is clean, straight and stable will keep working. But a used table comes with no warranty and an unknown history. Before you buy one, check:

• The top: look for dents, sagging between the legs, pitting, rust and deep scratches. Run a hand across it. A food contact surface should be smooth.
• The grade: try a magnet. If you need 304 for wet work, a magnet that sticks firmly suggests 430.
• The frame: rock the table. Look for bent legs, cracked welds, stripped feet and a loose or missing undershelf.
• Certification: look for an NSF mark. If there is none, your health inspector may not accept it as a food contact surface.
• Size: a used table that is the wrong size costs more in lost space than it saves.
• Delivery: a used table is usually fully assembled. Measure doorways, stairs and turns before you collect it.

A new Mixrite table arrives flat-packed, NSF listed, with a 90-day workmanship warranty and a known size and capacity. For a kitchen that depends on a table every day, that certainty is often worth more than the savings.

Beyond the Kitchen

Stainless work tables are used well outside restaurants: in labs, garages, workshops, shipping rooms, salons, breweries, farm stands and food processing. Stainless steel resists water, is easy to wipe down and does not absorb liquids or odors. A 30" deep table such as the ST3060EC makes a solid packing or assembly bench. A ST3096EC gives you 8 feet of work surface for packing and batch work.

For labs and other non-food settings, check what chemicals the table will see. 430 stainless is not a good match for strong acids or chlorides, and some lab work calls for 304 or 316 stainless or a chemical-resistant surface. Check any compliance requirements for your industry before you choose a table.

Common Mistakes

• Buying by width only. Depth decides whether a sheet pan fits and how much aisle you lose. Check both.
• Using a work table as an equipment stand. A 34" table puts a countertop griddle or charbroiler too high, and the table is not rated like a stand. Use an SE stand.
• Forgetting the back edge. A flat top against a wall creates a gap that collects food and moisture. Consider a backsplash or rear edge.
• Ignoring the doors. Make sure oven, cooler and walk-in doors can still open fully.
• Buying the wrong number of casters. Six-leg models need two WA400001 sets, not one.
• Cutting directly on the steel. Use a cutting board. It protects both the table and your knives.
• Bleach and steel wool. These are the two fastest ways to rust a stainless table.
• Not leveling it. A table that rocks is unsafe and puts uneven load on the legs. Adjust the bullet feet.

Before You Order

1. Measure the space: width, depth, and the aisle that will be left in front of the table.
2. Decide what goes on it: hand prep (work table) or countertop cooking equipment (equipment stand).
3. Decide whether it goes against a wall (backsplash or rear edge) or in the open (flat top).
4. Check the weight of the heaviest equipment and storage you plan to use, against Atosa's listed capacity for the model.
5. Decide whether it needs to move. If yes, choose a model Atosa lists for the WA400001 casters, and count the legs.
6. Measure the path from the delivery door to the final spot, and plan for assembly.
7. Confirm the grade suits the job. 430 suits most dry and general prep. Constant wet, salty or chemical work may call for a higher grade.

When you are ready, open the product page and use the "See Price & Buy at The Restaurant Warehouse" button to see the price and order. Questions about sizing or fit? Call (206) 419-5801.

Prep Table FAQ

What is the most popular prep table size?

48" wide by 30" deep, like the ST3048EC, is the size most kitchens start with. It gives one person a full workspace and fits a sheet pan front to back. In narrow kitchens, the 48" x 24" ST2448EC is the usual choice.

How tall is a prep table?

The Mixrite work tables have a 34" work surface. With the 4" backsplash the overall height is 38", and with the 2" rear edge it is 36". The SE equipment stands are 25-3/4" high.

Are these tables NSF certified?

Yes. Atosa lists every Mixrite work table and SE equipment stand on this page as NSF.

What steel are they made of?

Atosa lists the Mixrite work tables as 18 gauge, 430 stainless steel for the top, undershelf and legs. The SE stands are 18 gauge stainless steel.

Is 430 stainless good enough for a prep table?

For most dry and general prep, yes, as long as it is cleaned, rinsed and dried properly. If the table will be constantly wet, salty or cleaned with strong chlorine, a 304 table may last better.

How much weight can a prep table hold?

It depends on the model. Atosa lists top capacities from 400 lb on the smallest 24" deep tables to 680 lb on the ST3096EC, and 800 lb to 900 lb on the 30" deep equipment stands. Atosa does not list capacities for the 36" deep tables, the rear-edge tables or the 36" deep stands.

Can I put casters on my table?

Atosa lists the WA400001 caster set for the flat-top 24" and 30" deep tables and all SE stands. One set has 4 casters. Six-leg models need two sets.

Do the tables come assembled?

No. They ship knocked down (flat-packed) and are assembled on site.

What is the difference between a backsplash and a rear edge?

A backsplash (ECB4) is a 4" upturn at the back that keeps spills and debris off the wall. A rear edge (ECR2) is a 2" lip at the back that stops items from sliding off but adds less height.

What is the warranty?

Atosa lists a 90-day warranty on workmanship for the Mixrite tables and stands.

How often should a prep table be sanitized?

Under the FDA Food Code, a food contact surface should be cleaned and sanitized between different types of food, whenever it may have been contaminated, and at least every four hours if it is in constant use. Check your local health department's rules as well.

What should I never use to clean stainless steel?

Steel wool, wire brushes, chlorine scouring powders and undiluted bleach. They scratch the surface, leave iron particles that rust, or attack the steel directly.